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Why Dolce & Gabbana's China blunder could be such a disaster
중국에서 돌체앤가바나가 저지른 실수가 재앙 수준이 될 수 있는 이유
 
2018-12-01 조회수:1246
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**** Background ****
이탈리아의 명품 브랜드 돌체앤가바나가 중국에서 된서리를 맞고 있다. 최근 이 회사는 계획 중이던 상하이 패션쇼를 홍보하는 동영상을 제작해 중국 소비자들에게 공개했는데, 이것이 문제의 시작이었다. 중국 모델이 젓가락을 들고 스파게티를 먹으려다 실패하고는 피자를 젓가락으로 집기 힘들어하는 모습을 보였는데, 중국 네티즌이 이런 내용은 중국 문화를 모욕하는 것이라고 지적을 한 것이다. 그런데 이를 두고 중국인 누리꾼과 설전을 벌이던 이 회사 공동대표인 가바나가 “중국은 똥같은 나라”, “무식하고 더러운 냄새 나는 마피아”라고 말한 사실이 알려지면서 논란이 일파만파로 퍼졌다. 가바나는 뒤늦게 “인스타그램 계정을 해킹당했다”는 해명을 내놨지만 오히려 역효과만 냈다. 장쯔이, 리빙빙 등 중국 스타들은 예정돼있던 상하이 패션쇼 불참을 선언했고, 네티즌들은 중국인들의 돈만 사랑하고 중국을 존중하지 않는 브랜드는 떠나라”며 돌체앤가바나 옷을 불태우거나 칼로 찢어 화장실에 버리는 영상까지 올리기도 했다. 중국의 3대 온라인 쇼핑몰은 물론 중국 대형 백화점에서도 돌체앤가바나 제품 판매를 중단했다.

중국인의 제품 보이콧 운동은 이번이 처음이 아닌데, 일본 및 우리나라와도 첨예한 문제로 대립하게 되자, 제품 및 관광을 보이콧하면서 지금까지도 큰 타격을 주고 있을 정도이다. 전문가들은 이번 사태로 심하게 마음이 상한 중국인들이 돌체앤가바나를 아예 사지 않을 가능성이 높다고 전망하고 있다.
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New York (CNN Business) Dolce & Gabbana needs to clean up the mess (엉망진창으로 만든 것을 청소하다) it made in China, or get left out of the country's luxury boom.

Over the past several days, the Italian fashion line has been trying to manage a crisis caused by an ad campaign that critics called "disrespectful and racist (불경하고 인종차별적인)." It's also reeling from offensive comments (자극하는 코멘트) allegedly sent from co-founder Stefano Gabbana's personal Instagram account. The Italian designer has denied writing the messages.

Fallout from the controversy has been swift and harsh (논란으로 인한 결과는 신속하고 가혹했다). Celebrities called for a boycott (보이콧을 요청하다). Chinese e-commerce sites pulled D&G products from their virtual shelves. The brand canceled a major fashion show in Shanghai that the ads, which featured an Asian model struggling to eat Italian food with chopsticks (한 아시아계 모델이 이탈리아 음식을 젓가락으로 힘겨워하며 먹는 장면이 담겨 있었다), were designed to promote.

"This is a big brand crisis," said Tulin Erdem, a professor of marketing at NYU's Stern business school. "Sometimes brands do recover ... but on a scale of 1-10, [this is] really high up (1~10의 강도라고 할 때 이것은 정말 높은 위치에 있다)."

Alienating customers is always bad for business (소비자들을 멀어지게 만드는 것은 언제나 사업에는 안 좋은 것이다). But for luxury brands, pushing away Chinese shoppers is a disaster (재앙이다).

A taste for luxury

Chinese consumers that abandoned luxury brands during a government crackdown on corruption are now delivering a wave of sales to high-fashion brands (고급 패션 브랜드에 대한 판매 물결을 일으키고 있다).

Kering (KER), the owner of Gucci and Alexander McQueen, said that sales in China soared 30% in the first half of 2018. French fashion house Hermes credited sales in the country for record profits over the same period. D&G is a private company that does not share its sales figures with the public.

Overall, Chinese consumers spend over $7 billion each year on luxury goods (중국 소비자들은 명품에 매년 70억 달러 이상을 쓰고 있다), according to the consultancy McKinsey. That's nearly one-third of the global market (이것은 전세계 마켓의 약 1/3에 해당하는 것이다).

Dolce & Gabbana may have seen the Shanghai show as a way to win over those consumers.

The company had promoted the canceled event with the hashtags #DGLovesChina and #DGTheGreatShow on its social media accounts.

As criticism poured in, co-founders Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana tried to explain their thinking.

"Our dream was to bring to Shanghai a tribute event dedicated to China which tells our history and vision," the founders said in a statement posted to Instagram and Twitter on Wednesday. "It was not simply a fashion show, but something that we created especially with love and passion for China (이것은 그냥 패션쇼가 아니라 중국에 대한 우리의 사랑과 열정을 특별히 담은 쇼였다)."

The company also said that Gabbana's account was hacked (가바나의 계정이 해킹을 당했다), and that the offensive messages were unauthorized. "I love China and the Chinese Culture," Gabbana wrote on his personal account. "I'm so sorry for what happened."

The company did not immediately respond to a request for comment from CNN Business.

Some didn't find the apologies sincere (일부 사람들은 사과가 진솔하지 못했다고 생각한다).

Chinese-French model Estelle Chen, who withdrew from the show, wrote "you don't love China, you love money (당신들은 중국을 사랑하는 게 아니라 돈을 사랑하는 거예요)," in an Instagram post tagging both the brand and Gabbana directly.

Chinese consumers are particularly sensitive to criticism that goes viral online (중국 소비자들은 온라인에서 구전되는 비난에 대해 특히 민감하다), said Thomai Serdari, a strategist in luxury marketing and branding who teaches at NYU's Stern business school.

"People are really influenced by what's happening online," she said. "They do shop primarily online, and they're excellent researchers," she said. They "have experience in the luxury market and they really know what they're buying."

And the way young, wealthy Chinese consumers are thinking about luxury is evolving, said Sun Baohong, a marketing professor at Cheung Kong Graduate School of Business.

"Before it was more for showing off social status (이전에는 사회 신분을 자랑하기 위한 것이었다)," she said. Now, it's about "making a personal statement (지금은 개인적인 표현이다)."

Even if Dolce & Gabbana hadn't offended people with its ads, she added, it probably would have missed the mark with the campaign.

"The ad is really showing a very old-fashioned" image of China, she said. "Chinese consumers still love foreign brands, but things are changing."

Making amends

Now, D&G has to figure out how to win back Chinese consumers.

"It's not going to happen overnight," said Andrew Gilman, founder of the crisis communications firm CommCore Consulting Group. The brand will have to "find the biggest influencers they can ... [and] get back in their good graces," he said.

The company must also share a consistent message across its social media platforms (소셜 미디어플랫폼을 통해 지속적인 메시지를 공유해야 한다) and any other channels it uses to communicate with customers, he said.

Moving forward, it will have to do a better job of understanding Chinese culture (중국 문화를 좀더 잘 이해해야 할 것이다). "You can be a global brand," Gilman said, "but you have to have local sensitivities."
1. What mistake did Dolce & Gabbana make in China?
      
정답:  One of their ad campaigns was disrespectful and racist.

2. What did Chinese e-commerce sites do after the controversy?

      
정답:  They pulled D&G products from their virtual shelves.

3. How much do Chinese consumers spend each year on luxury goods?

      
정답:  They spend over $7 billion each year on luxury goods.

4. What did D&G’s co-founders do as criticism poured in?

      
정답:  They tried to explain their thinking and apologized.


After the Dolce & Gabbana’s promotional video angered Chinese people, China began to boycott of the company’s products. It is not the first time they boycott. China launched an unofficial boycott of South Korea goods over THAD systems. They also boycotted salmon from Norway during a hotly contested human rights issue. What do you think about the China's boycott movement?

돌체앤가바나의 홍보 비디오가 중국인들을 분노하게 한 이후, 중국은 이 회사 제품에 대한 보이콧을 시작했다. 중국인들이 보이콧을 한 것은 이번이 처음은 아니다. 중국은 사드 시스템 문제로 한국산 제품에 대한 보이콧을 벌였으며 인권 문제가 제기되는 가운데 노르웨이 연어를 보이콧하기도 했다. 중국의 보이콧 운동에 대해 당신은 어떻게 생각하는가?
 
 
 
 

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